How do I wallpaper around pipes, sinks, and plumbing fixtures?

Hi Morten,
Thanks for your message! You're absolutely right, wallpapering around pipes and bathroom fixtures can be tricky, even for someone with experience.

Why it’s challenging to wallpaper around plumbing fixtures?

Wallpapering in a bathroom is about navigating the many unique physical obstacles it presents while avoiding damage to your wallpaper. Even if you’re comfortable with wallpapering a standard wall, once you add pipes and sinks into the mix, it gets a lot more complex:

Plumbing fixtures interrupt the flow of wallpaper

Pipes, taps, toilets, and pedestal sinks are fixed obstacles that break the wall’s surface and layout. You can’t wallpaper over them, so you have to work around them, which means cutting into the wallpaper without disrupting the pattern or weakening the paper. Unlike electrical sockets or switches, these fixtures often lack flat, defined edges, making the process less predictable.

Tight spaces and curves limit access and visibility

Areas like the space behind a toilet cistern or under a pedestal sink are difficult to reach with our hands or tools. You often have to “feel” your way through the process, working blind or at awkward angles. Curved surfaces require numerous relief cuts to allow the wallpaper to lay flat. This takes time, accuracy, and steady hands.

Incorrect cuts can lead to tearing, misalignment, or bubbling

Cut too little, and the wallpaper could tear when you try to force it around the obstacle. Cut too much, and you may leave a bit of wall exposed or struggle to align the pattern. A poor fit can also create tension points where the wallpaper lifts or air bubbles appear. This is especially true around circular objects like pipes, where even small mistakes can become very visible.

Moisture and steam increase the risk of failure

We are talking about areas prone to humidity and occasional splashes, so if wallpaper edges near sinks, taps, or pipes aren't trimmed cleanly and sealed properly, water can seep behind it, causing peeling and mould over time.

Peel & stick wallpaper is less forgiving in tight areas

Thanks to its mess-free application and washable surface, peel & stick wallpaper is increasing popular for bathrooms, too. If you pick a model of this variety, bear in mind that it can be a little harder to manipulate around pipes and irregular shapes as repositioning it is trickier once it makes contact with the surface.

Which tools do I need and what about prep work?

Before you get started, I strongly advice to take a few minutes to gather the right tools and prepare the space properly. Wallpapering around plumbing will require your full attention, and the last thing you want is to break your focus rummaging through the garage for that one missing tool!

Essential tools

Make sure you have the following at your disposal:

• A pair of sharp scissors
• Utility knife with sharp, fresh blades
• Straight edge or ruler
• Small putty knife/scraper
• Seam roller
• Plumb line
• Yardstick or long smoother
• Pencil

Prep work matters

You should start by cleaning the walls thoroughly and making sure they’re smooth and dry. Try to remove the rings around pipes or taps and small fixtures; it will give you more room to work and helps create a cleaner finish. It might sound obvious but… don’t forget to turn off the water if you're planning to loosen or remove anything connected to plumbing.

What general rules should I follow for wallpapering near plumbing?

Before we dive in on how to proceed, there are a few general rules I always follow when wallpapering around plumbing, and they’ve saved me a lot of frustration over the years:

Use only water-resistant wallpaper

This should go without saying, but bathrooms are high-moisture areas, so always make sure you choose a wallpaper model that can withstand humidity and the occasional splash. Focus on vinyl-coated wallpaper or a non-woven model with an extra coating that seals and protects its surface (read How to seal wallpapers to find out more about this topic). Avoid delicate or absorbent finishes like paper-based or fabric-backed wallpaper; no matter how great you think they look, they won’t last long.

Protect vulnerable areas with a clear silicone sealant

Once the wallpaper is fully dry, apply a thin line of clear silicone sealant around the base of sinks, pipes, and other plumbing fixtures. This keeps moisture from getting behind the wallpaper and helps to prevent peeling, mould, or water damage, especially in areas where water tends to collect or splash.

Start from a plumb line or centre the pattern

If you’re using patterned wallpaper, it’s worth taking a moment to align the design, especially if it will sit behind a focal point like a tap or mirror. Draw a plumb line (a vertical guide) or use a level to ensure your first strip is straight. Once that’s in place, work outward.

Use relief cuts to help the paper contour neatly

Relief cuts are small, angled snips made toward the obstacle. They let the wallpaper bend and fold around curved or irregular shapes like pipes, sink edges, and toilet bases.

Smooth the wallpaper toward the obstacle, not away from it

Instead of trying to measure where the pipe or fixture is and then cutting a hole in the wallpaper before hanging it, apply the wallpaper normally, smoothing it down toward the pipe or fixture. Once you physically reach the obstacle, cut around it.

How do I wallpaper around pipes?

Pipes are some of the trickiest obstacles to wallpaper around, not just because they’re round, but because they’re often close to the wall and hard to reach. Here's how to do it:

Bring the wallpaper to the pipe and cut a slit to the centre

Start by smoothing the wallpaper into place until it reaches the pipe. Don’t try to pre-cut a hole based on measurements, it rarely lines up perfectly. Instead, make a straight vertical slit from the edge of the wallpaper to the centre of the pipe. This will allow you to lay the wallpaper flat around the obstacle.

Make small relief cuts - think of a star or pizza-slice pattern

Once the slit is in place, make several small cuts radiating out from the centre of the pipe. These "star cuts" let the wallpaper fold neatly around the circular shape without tearing or bunching. Keep the cuts short, you can always adjust as you go.

Gently tuck the paper behind the pipe if there’s space

If the pipe sits slightly away from the wall, use a small putty knife to gently guide the wallpaper behind it. This gives a cleaner look and helps disguise the cut edges. Just be careful not to push too hard or stretch the paper, let it settle into place naturally.

Wait until the wallpaper is dry before trimming the edges

Once everything is smoothed into place, resist the urge to trim immediately as wet wallpaper is more prone to tearing. Let it dry fully, then use a sharp cutter knife or scissors to trim any excess along the pipe or wall. This gives you much more control and helps avoid ragged edges.

If you’re dealing with more than one pipe close together (e.g. if you are working under a sink), repeat the process for each pipe. Work from the front pipe backwards so you’re not constantly lifting the paper to reach behind. It’s a bit fiddly, but it will pay off in the end.

How do I wallpaper around the pedestal sink?

In my opinion, pedestal sinks are one of the most challenging areas to wallpaper, not just because of the pipes underneath, but because the basin sits flush against the wall, leaving little room to manoeuvre. However, with a bit of planning (and patience), I am confident you can get a professional-looking result. Here's how I recommend approaching it:

Align the wallpaper pattern behind the tap for visual balance

If you’re using a patterned wallpaper, for example with stripes or a floral design, it’s worth taking the time to centre the pattern behind the tap. It creates a symmetrical, intentional look that’s surprisingly satisfying. Use a level or plumb line to help position your first strip so the pattern runs neatly through the centre of the sink.

Smooth the paper downward and cut carefully around the curves

Once you’ve aligned the top and smoothed the paper into place, start working downward toward the basin. As you reach the edges of the sink, gently press the wallpaper against the curve and begin making small relief cuts to help the paper flex and wrap. These don’t need to be deep at first, you can always refine them later.

Make multiple relief cuts around the underside and base pipes

Generally speaking, you’ll find three pipes beneath the basin: hot, cold, and the drain. These are tucked inside the pedestal and can be hard to reach. As with wall-mounted pipes, use “pizza-slice” relief cuts to ease the wallpaper around each one. Work from front to back, smoothing and cutting gradually so the paper doesn’t tear or pull.

Tuck the wallpaper behind the sink edge using a putty knife, and trim once dry

Where possible, use a small putty knife to slide the wallpaper just behind the basin edge. This hides the cut lines and gives a cleaner finish. Once the paper is fully dry, return with a sharp blade to trim away any excess. I recommend applying a thin line of clear silicone sealant around the edge to protect against moisture.

Take your time here, it’s not a job that should be rushed. I always say, this is the bit that separates a decent result from a stunning one. Let the paper do the work, and don’t force it into position.

How do I wallpaper behind the toilet?

Wallpapering behind a toilet can feel awkward as there’s usually not a lot of space and you’ll likely be working by feel more than sight, but it’s perfectly doable:

Use a yardstick or long smoother to reach behind the tank

Unless you’re planning to temporarily remove the toilet (which most people don’t as it requires special skills), you’ll need a long, flat tool like a wallpaper smoother or a long ruler to help press the paper into place. Once your wallpaper strip is lined up, use this tool to guide it down behind the cistern and smooth out bubbles or folds.

Make narrow relief slits around the inlet pipes and mounting bolts

As you bring the wallpaper down behind the tank, you’ll need to make small, precise slits to navigate around the water inlet pipe and any visible bolts. These don’t have to be large, just enough to relieve tension and let the paper lie flat. Use your fingers to feel where the cuts need to go, and work slowly.

Let the paper dry fully, then trim any excess with a new sharp blade

Once the wallpaper is in place and smoothed down, allow it to dry completely before trimming. This prevents accidental tearing, especially in areas where visibility is limited. Use a sharp blade to trim around the base and pipe edges, and check that no paper is overlapping.

Don’t stress out if the fit behind the toilet isn’t perfect, as those areas are rarely visible. What matters most is that the paper is securely in place and free from air bubbles or moisture gaps.

Pro tips and mistakes you should avoid

Over the years, I’ve seen the same avoidable mistakes crop up again and again. Here are my tips to follow if you want to get a flawless result in the bathroom:

Don’t force the paper, use enough relief cuts to release tension

If the wallpaper isn’t lying flat, don’t pull or stretch it into place. That only leads to tears, bubbles, or misalignment. Instead, add more small relief cuts (those angled “pizza-slice” snips) to help the paper relax and follow the contours of the object. This is especially important around pipes and curved sink edges, where tension builds easily.

Always cut square to the object for clean seams

One of the easiest mistakes to make, especially when working at odd angles, is cutting diagonally or at a slant. The result? Uneven seams that are hard to hide. When you cut around pipes or tap bases, make sure your cuts are square to the object. This keeps everything neat and helps the wallpaper edges meet cleanly.

Wait until the wallpaper is fully dry before trimming

Let me repeat this as it’s possibly the most common mistake: while it’s tempting to tidy everything up straight away, trimming wet wallpaper is a recipe for tearing. Wait until the paper dries, and only then cut cleanly with a sharp blade, much like cutting dry paper with scissors.

If you are looking for more general advice on how to wallpaper a bathroom, I suggest you check my instructions How to wallpaper in the bathroom. For wallpapering your laundry room head to How to transform your laundry room with wallpaper. If you are also contemplating wallpapering your shower, I provided an exhaustive answer to another customer under the header Can I wallpaper the shower?

I hope these tips will help you with your project!
Good luck!
Isabel